Mountaineering adventure in support of local charity

Aconcagua - January/February 2006

Aconcagua is the world's highest trekking peak at 22,830ft, 6,959metres. It Is the second highest of the seven continental summits. It is the highest point in the Western and Southern hemisphere, towering above the surrounding peaks in the Argentine Andes. The mountain stands on the border with Chile.

Mark Perkins from the Standards and Effectiveness Division within Education in the Leicester City Council will be attempting to climb Aconcagua with a small team from 26th January 2006 spending up to 27 days away from his home in Mountsorrel, Leicestershire.

The trip is being organised by Jagged Globe a world leader in providing mountaineering expeditions, being the first British company to lead clients to the summit of Everest. The selected ascent is via the Horcones route. This is a very arduous ascent due to the scale of the mountain, its considerable altitude and the unpredictable weather. The expedition will entail spending up to 17 days on the mountain with a walk in period and a three day window of opportunity for the summit attempt.

An intended outcome of the trip is to raise money for Leicester City community cohesion sporting projects and the Rushey Mead Foundation, to build a new school in the Gujarat state region of India

Mark's Log

Long Flight Home
21 February 2006	The flight back from Buenos Aires to London via Madrid, seemed to take far longer than the actual 14 hours it was. All the team were met by various family and friends and then dispersed to all corners of the UK. Hopefully, the outcome of the trip for me will be measured in the amount of money that has been raised towards the building of a new three classroom school in the Gujurat region of India. I hope that anyone reading this journal of events has enjoyed following this adventure in the Andes, and the experience of being part of a major expedition to climb the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres. I would like to formally acknowledge the tremendous support that I have been afforded by colleagues within Standards and Effectiveness, espeically my admin support Kumud Solanki, without whom I would not have been able to coordinate the various admin requirements of the trip. Ben Robinson and Richard Clarkson from the Leicester City Learning Centre who authorised and developed this Web site for me. Finally, my family and close friends who have continued to support and encourage me to to undertake this trip. Dedicated to Matthew and Lauren who I hope one day will read this journal with a level of understanding and pride in their father who in so many other ways has let them down in their young lives.
Long Walk Out - Horcones Valley - 13/14th Feb
21 February 2006	After the disappointment of the summit day, we all had to ascend from Camp Three (Berlin Camp). This involved collecting equipment left at various stages on the mountain at both Camps one and two. At base camp we were all greeted by the remaining support staff, and we enjoyed a special meal that had been prepared for us all. That night we all slept well, and it turned out to be our last night in tents, a situation we were all delighted about. The next morning we all had to ensure all our equipment was ready for the mules to transport out to the National Park Entrance some 35kms back down the Horcones Valley. We obviously had to walk out, and it made for a very long and tiresome day. However, the scenery remained spectacular with the 5,000m and 6,000m peaks rising steeply from the valley floor, upto incredible snow capped summits that continued to impress us all as we walked out. The obvious incentive for us all, was the fact that we would be spending the first night in many, in a warm, dry hotel in Mendoza, as transport had been laid on for us to be collected straight from the Park entrance. It was however a 4 hour road journey, so we finally arrived back at our hotel around midnight. Even though we were all tired, hungry and very dirty, we all managed to find suitable rooms and rest for the first time without having to worry about whether or not our tents would survive the incredibly strong winds that seemed to continue to rage whilst on the mountain, or whether or not we had managed to drink enough fluids to ensure we didn't get any further headaches! A rest day in Mendoza allowed us all to enjoy the beautiful weather and participate in a wine tour to sample the local red wine made and exported world wide, called Malbec. We also experienced our first tropical storm whilst out for our evening meal, and had to change our planned eating arrangements from outside to more suitable area inside the restaurant. The rain came quickly and was very very heavy, but only for a short time, and then shortly after the clouds emptied, appeared a sky full of the bright stars. The next day we took and internal flight from Mendoza back to Buenos Aires and enjoyed a day and half to relax and recover. I shall try to complete the log upon my return to the UK, as time on the computer here is limited, so I'll sign off.
Summit Day 12 Feb 2006
16 February 2006	(Written in haste and in poor weather conditions) The weather permits us to have a summit attempt on the first of out three day window. With poor weather due to come in, we are awoken at 4.30am with as much hot water as we can drink in a hour before moving out of our tents to the exceptionaly cold early morning. We all leave at 5.30am. It is not long into the cold morning before we encounter our first summit day casualties. Three team members are turned back to Camp Three all with various ailments associated directly with the altidue (we are all now well above 20,000ft). Soon after that, the remaining 7 members are required to put on crampons, to deal with the remaining stages of the ascent. Unfortunately, the next casualty was the least expected from my perspective, it was me. I, along with another team member was also asked to return to Camp Three, with only 160 metres remaining to the summit. Absolutely physically exhausted and bitterly disappointed I agree to return. A decision, that upon reflection was in my own medical interests, but also in the interest of the remaining teams summit bid. Luckily no further team members were asked to return to Camp Three. We managed to get five out of the original team of 14 on the summit. I am only sorry that I was unable to reach the sumit that day. I would like to write more, and in more detail, but time does not permit. I shall endeavour to put more detail in after my return to Mendoza, and the normality of that environment. The following days spent coming down off the mountain was a period of great excitement for the five team members luckily enough to summit. For me, it was a difficult three days. I am so glad to have experienced the amazing time on the mountain, but remain disappointed that I was unable to deal with the altitude and with only 160 meteres to go, had to turn around.
Bonete Peak
16 February 2006	What an amazing day!! Bonete Peak gave us all a clear indication of the pace that we will be travelling at during the next week. Everything at this relatively low altitude 16,420 ft (low in relation to our intended height of 23,000 ft) seems to be undertaken at a slow pace. Our exceptionally patient guide, an Argentinian from Cordoba ensures that our steps are shortened and the pace of each step is VERY low. Everything becomes more difficult to do, and the requiremnt to take in oxygen from the air becomes more difficult, simply because there is less of it! All the party make it to the summit and due to the excellent weather we all sit huddled at the small summit, for photos and to admire the view around the surrounding area. We are able to spend time reviewing our intended route on the highest mountain around, Aconcagua, and it gives us all an incentive to ensure we are fit for the next week or so. Some of the team are already showing signs of strength on the mountain, others, like myself continue to experience severe headaches, and this is worrying at this early stage in the ascent. However, with medication, the headaches are reduced, and become manageable. Our Leader, Lydia, is always on hand to check our medical condition, and monitors all of us well. Also, the Dr available is keen to ensure that everyone reports any increase in the severity of headache, or the fact that our medicatiom is no longer reducing the obvious pain associated with the condition. There is absolutely no relationship between the levels of aerobic capacity and the way in which indivduals adapt to altitude. That is to say, it does not matter how fit you are, no one will know how you will adapt to the lack of oxygen at different heights. Back into the Base Camp for a great evening meal, and to reflect on the days ahead. The good news, is we have another rest day before ascending higher onto Aconcagua over the coming days to move equipment and stores up to the higher camps ensuring we have adequate provisions at the mountain for our summit bid. Good night to everyone and just remember how easy it is for you to get up in the night and go to your bathroom, this is a MAJOR issue for us all at this altitude and temperature!!! There are no en suites up here you know!
Rest Day at Base Camp
16 February 2006	Base Camp is a small tented village at the foot of the west wall of Aconcagua. Many commercial expedition parties gather here, and the logistical arrangements are well organised and maintained especially when you consider that all of the equipment and supplies have either been portered up or transported by mules via the amazing Horcones valley, and very arid, dry large river bed that permits access to the higher regions during the summer season. Today we all have had to undergo a medical the Argentinian authorities ensure all climbers undergo. It has three parts, the blood/oxygen levels (SATS), blood pressure and heart rate. If any one of the three mentioned tests does not correspond with the range that the medical team expect for the age and weight of the climber he/she is not permitted to proceed further. Two of our team fell into this category, and were asked to report back tomorrow and at that stage they will either be offered medication, or be notified that they are not to proceed any higher up the mountain. Having already lost one member to Acute Mountain Sickness, (AMS) we did not want to deal with the loss of anymore so early on into the expedition. Luckily all my tests were fine. The day pasted quietly, with minds very much on tomorrow when we venture up to the summit of a training peak called Bonete Peak at an altitude of just over 16,000ft. We can see the summit from Base Camp, and will take around 8 hours from here, but will afford us invaluable experience in dealing with the reduction in the available oxygen at this height, coupled with a clear view of our intended route up Aconcagua. Apart from the usual and expected head aches everyone appears to be coping well with the whole experience. The priorities during our daily life up here change from worrying about work, bills and mortgages to worrying about ensuring we have all had more that 4 litres of water each day and that we are continuing to pass this liquid effectively through our systems. This will become more crucial as we continue up the mountain The scenery at Base Camp is spectacular, with the sun bright on the west face until late in the evening and the colours exposed on the mountian so vivid and clear. As soon as the sun has gone down the temperatures become exceptionally low and cold, this often signals it is time to get into our tents and sleeping bags. A 360 degree view around the camp gives only a spectacular view of high and beautiful mountain region. There is nothing as far as the eye can see except the range of high peaks the Andes exposes us to. The scenery here should only be experienced and not read not written about. Anyone who reads this with any sense of adventure should make every attempt to vist the very high altitude desert, it is truly a marvellous place to be!
Communication Problems
16 February 2006	The following information has been submitted out of oreder due to communication problems whilst on the mountain, sorry for any confusion.
Amendment to text
15 February 2006	My text relating to the leader of this trip was not accurate. Lydia was the first woman to ascend Everest without oxygen, not the first woman to ascent everest. Sorry for any confusion.
Trouble with Communications
7 February 2006	Some reports have not yet been posted due to poor weather conditions, but the following applies for the next 6 days. Tuesday 7th February - Equipment check at base camp. Wednesday 8th February - Move up to Camp 1 16,500 feet. Thursday 9th February - Up to Camp 2 17,100 feet Friday 10th February - Rest day at Camp 2. Saturday 11th February - Move up to Camp 3 19,468 feet. Sunday 12th, Monday 13th and Tuesday 14th February are summit day opportunities at 23,000 feet. More detailed reports to follow.
2 February 2006
2 February 2006	Reached base camp late last night, 1 member of team had a medivaced with acute mountain sickness. Rest of team all ok at 14,200ft. Tomorrow, we undertake Bonete Peak at 16,000ft to a further climatise. All going well apart from headaches.
Mendoza and on to Los Penitentes 28th,29thJanuary
29 January 2006	The whole team now together in Mendoza after meeting colleagues from New Zealand. Our Leader met us at the Airport in the small town of Mendoza. Her name is Lydia and she was the first women to ascend Everest, so I feel very confident in her abilities (only my own to worry about!) The Town of Mendoza has a small population and is renowned for its wine, predominantly red, entitled Malbec (?) but some selective white wines. The diet here is geared very much around steak, steak and more steak, and they are particlularly large. Most of the team have been eating well, and preparing for our four hour drive up into the Andes to a place called Los Penitentes at an altitude of 8,530 feet. This is a small ski resort in the winter, but during their summer (now) it is a rather desolate place, ideal for us to sort out equipment that will be moved up onto the mountain in stages. We will spend one night here, then start our further ascent on foot up to Camp Confluencia (Alt 11,140ft 3,395m) where will will spend two nights. I am not too sure of further reports until we reach Plaza Des Mulas on Day 7 (Alt 14,322ft, 4,365m) where will will be spending a few days to acclimatise. The whole team remain very focussed and positive even though a small team has just returned from the mountian with no summit bid, due to extreme snow falls high on the mountain and blizzard conditions. I remain positive that we shall have better luck.
The final days before departure
21 January 2006	Several primary and secondary schools within the City of Leicester have asked to be actively engaged in the project and so I have been involved in numerous school assemblies to explain about the planned expedition. Additionally, I have been requested to carry a pedometer to monitor the amount of steps I take each day whilst on the mountain. The Youth Sports Trust are providing pedometres for many of our City schools in a pilot programme for Junior Schools to calculate the amount of steps children take each school day, and consider their levels of activity. I shall be including a number at the end of each text that will update schools on my days activity. I have also received my satellite phone and communication package that should enable me to speak with Radio Leicester and contact my web site links from the advance base camp when I am there. I have a few days left to pack, make final arrangements and preparations for the trip, I have been training hard and feel that I am in suitable condition to attempt the mountain. I am really looking forward with anticipation to the day of departure from Gatwick, Thursday 26th January at 15.40 hours to Argentina via Madrid, although I also acknowledge that I shall really miss my two young children Matthew and Lauren.